From Van Cleef et Arpels First to Hermès Muguet Porcelaine, he has perfected the art of radiance. In Kurkdjian’s hands, however, the heavy notes are made as lucent as Renaissance enamels.įinally, a discussion of radiant perfumes can’t miss the creations by Jean-Claude Ellena. Such materials enrich a fragrance, but they also weigh it down and make it opaque. Grand Soir, on the other hand, is in the dark register, generous in resins and balsams. The former is a bright orange blossom and amber theme. For his eponymous line he has interpreted a variety of genres, from citrus to woods, and this year he has added Petit Matin and Grand Soir to the collection. Having first studied ballet, Kurkdjian carries over the precision and grace of classical dance to his perfumery. ![]() On skin, it unfolds in soft layers, each as radiant as the one preceding it.Īnother perfumer I admire for his ability to render scents luminous is Francis Kurkdjian. It’s a complete vignette-an evening, the splash of waves, jasmine blossoms entangled in the hair, a banana leaf piled with sticky rice and mangoes, that famous Thai dessert, a salty kiss with an aftertaste of coconut cream. One of the recent creations by Becker is Kilian’s Moonlight in Heaven. Despite the conventional saying that too much knowledge kills the mystery, the experience made me appreciate both Becker’s craft and J’Adore’s lingering glow. Perfumery students learn the craft much like artists, by copying the work of the masters, and when I was trying to achieve the variegated radiance of J’Adore, its complexity and nuances mesmerized-and confounded-me. Another trendsetter is Becker’s Christian Dior J’Adore, a layer of flower notes as tightly woven as the millefiori ornaments of Murano glass. Her Tommy Girl contains a green tea accord so luminous that it seems fluorescent. Capturing this duality seems impossible, but perfumers are adept at creating illusions.Ĭalice Becker is one such creator, and her fragrances illustrate the idea of radiance. A radiant fragrance is not necessarily a strong smell-it follows the wearer at a few paces, but it’s neither heavy nor overpowering. ![]() The best way of understanding it is to envision a candle burning in a dark room, its glow lifting the dark shadows. Radiance in perfume is an elusive quality.
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